FAQ Molding for a wooden deck

What quality do I get?

All moldings are free of branches, cracks and have no sapwood on.
They are made from orginal premium teak or kebony wood. The production is based on high quality standards. Each molding has closely spaced annual rings until slanting from 90° to 45°. You will receive high-quality moldings for your deck with a particularly good dimensional stability and largely withstand against mechanical abrasion.

From which quantities can you order from us?

There is no minimum order quantity, so you can also get small length such as: 3x 200mm or shorter.

Are also longer moldings than 3300mm available?

On request, longer moldings up to approx. 4000 mm are also available. Please ask us specifically for this.
Please keep in mind, that strip lengths over 2950mm can only be shipped with a forwarding company.

Are other profile dimensions also available?

Yes, we can also produce these profiles in other dimensions (also in smaller quantities).
For the production we need a sketch of the cross section or you send us a sample.

Can I get also teakdeck moldings rebated on both sides?

Yes of course, the rebated on both sides of the strip is no problem.
But here, too, we need a sketch of the cross-section or a sample for the production.

Why are your teakdeck moldings so deeply rebated?

Every mm of use of your teakdeck in the depth is precious! You can assume that, depending on the mechanical load and care of the teakdeck, every 4 to 6 years one mm teak is removed. So, the flatter the joints, the faster you can expect that a renovation of your teakdeck is pending.

Why are your teakdeck moldings generally rebated?

A good question, because normally the strips do not have to be rebated at all. The rebate only serves to ensure an uniform joint-width and this simplified the work of laying something.
If you use a molding without a rebate, you will need spacers to give the joint-width.
Please also keep in mind, that, if you use screws by mounting the deck, you will lose the benefit of a "joint to the bottom".

Why does a gap must be laid between the individual moldings?

These are expansion joints. Teak works like all other types of wood too.
With moisture absorption, it begins to swell, with the moisture release it fades.
If the expansion joints did not exist, there would be inevitably structure tensions in the wood and distortions or cracks in the wood would result.

Can I also use your offered rectangular strips as teakdeck molding?

Rectangular strips are not teakdeck moldings, because they have mostly lying annual rings.
If you would like to use rectangular strips as teakdeck molding, we calculate a surcharge of 30% on the meter price for the sorting according to standing annual rings (inclined up to 45°).

Which wood moisture do your teakdeck molding have?

As a rule, you get the teakdeck moldings with a wood moisture content about 8-10%.
This is a very low value, that you'll never get back after laying.
The advantage is, that the strips exert a slight permanent pressure to the joint and it is therefore unprobable that the joint material tear off from the joint edge.

How are your teakdeck molding laid?

So, that no water can collect permanently under the strips later, all strips must be fully bonded to the underfloor.
The adhesive should remain as permanently elastic as possible, because materials such as fiberglass, plywood or steel work very differently than the wood. The substrate adhesive serves as a sort of "rubber band" which catches the different tensions of the different materials.
If the strips are laid in curves, the manual laying is only possible with screws.
So, that the screw holes do not later form "dripstone caves" below the deck, each screw hole must be provided with a blob of sealant, when inserting the screw.
To screw the moldings, we recommend our teakdeck screws, as these have a very flat screw head.
Wooden-plugs for closing the screw holes should be glued in the same wood grain direction like the moldings.
As jointing material we recommend the product Sikaflex 290 DC, because it is a one-component product, very good sanding after hardening and UV-resistant.
Of course, other jointing materials are also usable.
Every joint must be cleaned very thoroughly shortly before grouting! Cleaning only with a brush or hand brush is not enough! The best thing here is a fine rectangular rod (for example, a piece of waste wood), which is wrapped in a rag. Make sure, however, that the cloth is replaced regularly over and over again.
In addition, you should always keep a vacuum cleaner at hand.
Wood-dust in the joint is the most common reason why joint material is not stickable later on the joint flank.
To degrease the joint has always well proven acetone. Please make sure, that there is enough time left for flash off, before filling the material. (also pay attention to further manufacturer information of the joint material)
The joint material must be filled up to the bottom of the joint!
The best way to get this is: After grouting to screed the joint with a flat broach or spatula. The joint is only completely filled when a small wave forms on the surface during this process.

Teak or Kebony? Which moldings are better?

Both types of wood are perfectly OK. Teak is long proven in use. Kebony may have the additional benefit of being harder than teak and thus more resistant to mechanical abrasion. Also, it is finer pored than teak and the dirt does not accumulate so easily in the pores.